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OpenEVSE board for juicebox
@hmbay
One of the last firmware updates I received on the JuiceBox Pro 40A removed the webserver from AP mode. When I connect in AP, there isn't anything running like the old days where there was a webserver which allowed adjustment to current.
@hmbay
One of the last firmware updates I received on JuiceBox Pro 40A removed the webserver from AP mode.
Just wanted to give an update... I've now tested 2 boards (V1.0.3 and V1.1.0) on my V1 JuiceBox Pro 40 (orange & black metal case) and 2 boards on my V2 JuiceBox (purple plastic case) and so far, no joy. 3 of the boards give the Earth Ground Check failed and the last V1.0.3 for V2 was DOA. OpenEVSE is working on it and I'm getting excellent response including their pointing out my stupid wire swap on the sensor coils but it is looking like perhaps there was more variation in the designs than was expected. As I mentioned before, I'm blessed with one JuiceBox from each generation so updating them to work in the modern world was my goal. Thankfully I have a 4th Nissan unit that I've been using while we try to upgrade the others.
The original JuiceBox boards do have version numbers on them and I've sent pictures to Support so that they can compare them to what they test with.
Finally, I've also tested my power configuration with an RV line conditioner (all green) and my main panel is newish (two years old, installed by electrician) so I definitely have ground (in fact 2 ground rods). Anyone else going through this?
OpenEVSE Support
@hmbay There is a lot of variation and EMotorWerks/Enel did something I really do not like. They used the same connector in several different functions on both the V1 and V2.
On the V1 the AC test and AC line are the same connector. If they are reversed it looks like the board is DOA. You might want to check this. In addition the GFCI coil and Current coil are the same connector, reversing these causes a GFCI fault and a No Ground error.
On the v2 the DC, Relay, GFCI coil and Current coil are the same connector, mixing these causes a GFCI fault and a No Ground error.
Issues are not that common we have had about 10 actual bad boards in about 500 shipped so far, most of the time issues trace back to swapped connectors.
With the upgrade can I remotely set the current limit? My goal is to remotely turn charging on/off and to toggle between a 40A charge limit and a low (8A?) charge limit depending on external factors.
OpenEVSE Support
@Nick Yes you can you can also use home assistant to calculate your external factors and automatically change current. For example you could set the station to use excess solar production.
@Troy v0 is ready we just solder on a bunch of screw terminals to the v1 board. The V0 is an option on the V1 store page.
The pictures in the instructions seem to show everything swapped around which is sightly odd.
With the board orientated I have it all the connections reach ok except for the pink GFI related connection. Should I cut and extend these wires?
I don't think I can rotate the board as the heavy to-car wires are in the way of the bottom side components.
Also is there an antenna you recommend using?
OpenEVSE Support
@Nick
The board was intended to be installed with the high voltage components at he bottom and low voltage at top, but with some versions the WiFi antenna is on the bottom, some on the top.
You can get the pink wire closer by sliding the coil down along the red/Black wire or flip the board over and reroute the power wires to the left of the plastic standoff to clear the bottom components.
@Nick Kelsey,
Yes, you have the board mounted upside down from how it was intended. However, in my case, I had to mount it just like you did because my wifi antennae is on the bottom of the case and the wifi antennae wire would not reach. I have the 75amp Pro version, and it was not possible to slide the ring down, as they had actually shaved some insulation off the wires to get the ring on.
So, yes, I cut and extended the pink wires as you have suggested. And mine is working great.
Regarding the antennae, I suggest looking for an old internet router that no longer works to scavenge an antennae from. (computer geek friends or relatives, thrift store, ?)
Also, I drilled the front case, and added a light pipe above one of the LEDs.
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/VCC/LPC_190_CTP?qs=%2FvU7ivDUWU%2FsldLMwOiWiQ%3D%3D
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/VCC/RTN_250?qs=%2FvU7ivDUWU%252Bzn2CqCPB3Sg%3D%3D
openev. freshdesk. com@redsails. net
I am considering buying the new juicebox retrofit board to get myself started in the OpenEVSE world. I have exactly zero experience with OpenEVSE, and some experience with DIY electronics (ESP-home).
Could someone help me figure out, before I jump in:
* Is that board all-inclusive, or is any additional hardware required?
* Is it compatible with a screen, or at least a button?
* Is it pre-flashed, or do I need to get a programmer too? Which one?
Thanks in advance.