@Nick Yes you can you can also use home assistant to calculate your external factors and automatically change current. For example you could set the station to use excess solar production.
@Troy v0 is ready we just solder on a bunch of screw terminals to the v1 board. The V0 is an option on the V1 store page.
I just restarted the unit and get the following, no count on the GFCI error but it is displayed.
Fault will go away, but will no longer detect car or change from starting
Sorry for all the posts - an update.
After I disable the GFCI and Ground test the unit is working as it should.
Can you suggest why this may be the reason?
Do you have some suggestions on what I can do to test that the board is working?
Any reason why it would work okay first and then start showing this fault?
@Troy
Ground Test can be re-enabled. There is a known issue where false positive is detected as the unit loses power when unplugged. It does not affect any functionality.
GFCI Error and GFCI self Test Error are different. GFCI error is an actual ground fault detected. Self test error is the controller tickles the coil before charging to see if it trips on purpose.
Disabling GFCI Test does not disable GFCI it just does not self test GFCI every time before each charge. It is possible the GFCI or test coil came unplugged. We would recommend checking both are securely connected.
The pictures in the instructions seem to show everything swapped around which is sightly odd.
With the board orientated I have it all the connections reach ok except for the pink GFI related connection. Should I cut and extend these wires?
I don't think I can rotate the board as the heavy to-car wires are in the way of the bottom side components.
Also is there an antenna you recommend using?
Regarding: "Just this weekend I needed to turn down the current and there wasn't a method still working for the original JuiceBox Pro 40"
All JuiceBoxes including V0 still have the host or access point mode where you can connect directly to the unit via WiFi and get a web page with settings that you can change like the current level. I have an ancient V0 and it still has this feature. Same with my V1. It's not a feature that was advertised a lot especially if you used the Mobile App to do everything but it has been there the whole time.
@hmbay
One of the last firmware updates I received on the JuiceBox Pro 40A removed the webserver from AP mode. When I connect in AP, there isn't anything running like the old days where there was a webserver which allowed adjustment to current.
Both connections are securely connected, I have also changed the stock test wire from one loop to 5 as recommended by your build instructions.
Happy that it is still safe and I can confirm the car charged overnight :)
I have a question about the "Current Scale" and "current offset". I know how to change it and can see the effect however to get the readings close to what my car is showing my current scale is set to 83. Do you have a link to explain the calculations around this or do I need to jump into the code.
@hmbay
One of the last firmware updates I received on JuiceBox Pro 40A removed the webserver from AP mode.
@hmbay, v2 is the simpelest and seems to have little variation. We have only had a single report of one connector differance.
v0 has a lot of variation, the v1 board has footprints to solder on screw terminals so it is doable but takes a little more care figuring out what each wire is for.
@Danny Did you replace your LEDs with our LED module? If so the new LED module is color changing like in the Juicebox v2. All three LEDs will change color depending on state.
Green - Ready
Yellow - Connected
Blue - Charging
Red - Error
Purple - Sleeping
We are looking into programming individual LEDs to match the old Juicebox, but some of it provides zero value such as the power LED, If any or all LEDs are on then it should be obvious that here is power. Having the all colors of the Power LEDs match the State significantly improves visibility.
openev. freshdesk. com@redsails. net
I am considering buying the new juicebox retrofit board to get myself started in the OpenEVSE world. I have exactly zero experience with OpenEVSE, and some experience with DIY electronics (ESP-home).
Could someone help me figure out, before I jump in:
* Is that board all-inclusive, or is any additional hardware required?
* Is it compatible with a screen, or at least a button?
* Is it pre-flashed, or do I need to get a programmer too? Which one?
Thanks in advance.