I will throw out there that I have a v0 and possess very mediocre soldering skills. Was hoping to crimp some connectors instead. Honestly I'd just go for the soldering. It's literally the easiest soldering job I've ever done to put the screw terminals on. Only "tricky" part is I had to reroute wires due to different enough locations and had to replace the coil test wire as it couldn't quite reach. Again this was super easy as I already had comparable wire lying around.
@Ben Ford Regarding the screw terminals, I think OpenEVSE has offered to solder on the screw terminals before shipping if you make a special request. Also, there has been some discussion of the LEDs and options on the OpenEVSE Discord channel: https://discord.gg/Y3ftbUd4rR
Thanks ! This looks like a good idea, my replacement board however has no LED's on it so can not use this method. I plan on using the LED connector which has 3 LED's green, blue, and orange just need to know if the plug in LED's need to have a resistor added.
@Ernest DiNino I figured my situation out - even though I labeled each set of wires with a label maker, I somehow swapped the pair of wires for AC Input and AC Test wires. When I correctly wired them, the board turned on. Hope this helps!
@Ernest DiNino @David Tsao posting pictures of your installs (clear pics of all connections) would probably get useful responses. Also, the Discord server seems to be monitored more regularly: https://youtu.be/0MQJ4ZFYQyw
(We've swapped control boards in 25 Juiceboxes -- v0, v1, v2 -- and they're all working great)
I have a very old unit that has no LED's, I have almost completed the cutover and would like to use the LED's I have made a connector but would like to know if the LED's need to have a resistor added, I see that board has 3.3-5v next to the connector. maybe a 150 ohm?
Keep up the great work :)
@David Tsao. Thanks. I followed the directions exactly per prior posts on this thread. If you can give any insight that would be great.
@Ernest DiNino - I have the same problem with a v0 (solid metal case) and after I plug it in, no lights, no click, nothing. I'm going to check whether the 12VDC relay is connected correctly and I believe it's not polarized but will test.
The pictures in the instructions seem to show everything swapped around which is sightly odd.
With the board orientated I have it all the connections reach ok except for the pink GFI related connection. Should I cut and extend these wires?
I don't think I can rotate the board as the heavy to-car wires are in the way of the bottom side components.

Also is there an antenna you recommend using?
@Nick Yes you can you can also use home assistant to calculate your external factors and automatically change current. For example you could set the station to use excess solar production.
@Troy v0 is ready we just solder on a bunch of screw terminals to the v1 board. The V0 is an option on the V1 store page.
With the upgrade can I remotely set the current limit? My goal is to remotely turn charging on/off and to toggle between a 40A charge limit and a low (8A?) charge limit depending on external factors.
@hmbay There is a lot of variation and EMotorWerks/Enel did something I really do not like. They used the same connector in several different functions on both the V1 and V2.
On the V1 the AC test and AC line are the same connector. If they are reversed it looks like the board is DOA. You might want to check this. In addition the GFCI coil and Current coil are the same connector, reversing these causes a GFCI fault and a No Ground error.
On the v2 the DC, Relay, GFCI coil and Current coil are the same connector, mixing these causes a GFCI fault and a No Ground error.
Issues are not that common we have had about 10 actual bad boards in about 500 shipped so far, most of the time issues trace back to swapped connectors.
openev. freshdesk. com@redsails. net
I am considering buying the new juicebox retrofit board to get myself started in the OpenEVSE world. I have exactly zero experience with OpenEVSE, and some experience with DIY electronics (ESP-home).
Could someone help me figure out, before I jump in:
* Is that board all-inclusive, or is any additional hardware required?
* Is it compatible with a screen, or at least a button?
* Is it pre-flashed, or do I need to get a programmer too? Which one?
Thanks in advance.