Support

I am considering buying the new juicebox retrofit board to get myself started in the OpenEVSE world. I have exactly zero experience with OpenEVSE, and some experience with DIY electronics (ESP-home).

Could someone help me figure out, before I jump in:

* Is that board all-inclusive, or is any additional hardware required?

* Is it compatible with a screen, or at least a button?

* Is it pre-flashed, or do I need to get a programmer too? Which one?

Thanks in advance.

Any shot you could also provide the specs on the connectors used on the v1? I have a v0 that I'd be down for crimping some terminals on to in lieu of soldering screw terminals if I knew what to order.

@Nick Kelsey,

Yes, you have the board mounted upside down from how it was intended.  However, in my case, I had to mount it just like you did because my wifi antennae is on the bottom of the case and the wifi antennae wire would not reach.  I have the 75amp Pro version, and it was not possible to slide the ring down, as they had actually shaved some insulation off the wires to get the ring on.

So, yes, I cut and extended the pink wires as you have suggested.  And mine is working great.

Regarding the antennae, I suggest looking for an old internet router that no longer works to scavenge an antennae from. (computer geek friends or relatives, thrift store, ?)

Also, I drilled the front case, and added a light pipe above one of the LEDs.

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/VCC/LPC_190_CTP?qs=%2FvU7ivDUWU%2FsldLMwOiWiQ%3D%3D

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/VCC/RTN_250?qs=%2FvU7ivDUWU%252Bzn2CqCPB3Sg%3D%3D

@Troy Dangerfield  I Have an old JB 75 PRO that never had LED's.

The Juice rescue board has LED's on the board, so I drilled the front of my case above the LEDs, and added 2 of these light pipes:

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/VCC/LPC_190_CTP?qs=%2FvU7ivDUWU%2FsldLMwOiWiQ%3D%3D&countryCode=US&currencyCode=USD

Retainers:

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/VCC/RTN_250?qs=%2FvU7ivDUWU%252Bzn2CqCPB3Sg%3D%3D&countryCode=US&currencyCode=USD

Any experience out there with the V2 upgrade?  I'm about to try that next week.  

I am unlucky enough to have a V0, a V1 and a V2. My V0 has been solid as a rock and I don't really care about programmability so I'm going to probably leave that alone (or pass it on).  There was talk of doing an OpenEVSE kit for the V0 but I wonder how much demand for that there would be since that was an early, early adopter model.  It lost network connectivity ages ago and it just seems happy in isolation.

Thanks for your prior help.  I have wired up the OpenEV board with soldered on screw block terminals and got everything connected as per prior messages.  However when I plug the V0 (solid metal case) into the 240 outlet, nothing happens.  No lights, no click, nothing.  

I have left the metal cover off to watch the board.  

I have not tried to charge my vehicle yet.  

Is there some type of light or other that should be coming on with V0? 

 Also "AC Relay" was not used in this setup, per prior instructions.  

Thanks!

Just purchased and installed the new main board in my JuiceBox Pro40 (v1).

Unfortunately I am also seeing the Earth Ground Check Failed. I did disabling the ground check which showed everything green but I can't get either one of my cars to charge. I can't tell if the cars are rejecting the charger or if there is an issue with the board. No alerts, warnings, or logs on the charger that I can see.

My ID4 displays "charge cancelled"

Anyone else have this problem?

@Jeffrey Martin

I get a new "No Ground" error every time I shut off the breaker to my JB V1 with OpenEVSE rescue board installed.  I was advised this is not an issue, and there may be a firmware revision released in the future to optimize the timing of the no ground error.

I upgraded my non-functioning JuiceBox V2 yesterday using both this OpenEVSE tutorial and this Youtube tutorial, which was useful but a bit unnerving as the youtuber got it wrong on the first try and never explains his mistake. In my caution, I labeled each wire as I disconnected it, first finding it in OpenEVSE tutorial using supplied pictures and text, then affixing a label matching the correct position on the OpenEVSE board. There are three same-sized plugs that you could mix up if not careful. My labels made it easy to get it right; the station is working perfectly! This is a great example of "reuse, repair, recycle"! Much of the JuiceBox is retained and reused, including all that copper, plastic case and fittings, beefy handle, etc. All that gets recycled is the old board. Thank you OpenEVSE and Chris Howell! Please consider making a specifications label that can replace the Enel X label, and a big OpenEVSE label to cover the word JuiceBox! 

@Ben Ford Regarding the screw terminals, I think OpenEVSE has offered to solder on the screw terminals before shipping if you make a special request.  Also, there has been some discussion of the LEDs and options on the OpenEVSE Discord channel:  https://discord.gg/Y3ftbUd4rR

I will throw out there that I have a v0 and possess very mediocre soldering skills. Was hoping to crimp some connectors instead. Honestly I'd just go for the soldering. It's literally the easiest soldering job I've ever done to put the screw terminals on. Only "tricky" part is I had to reroute wires due to different enough locations and had to replace the coil test wire as it couldn't quite reach. Again this was super easy as I already had comparable wire lying around.

I got a v1 kit from OpenEVSE to use with my v1 Juicebox (orange+black metal box, same as Ted's post above). The install instructions were clear, except for the orientation of the LED flex PCB. I tried it both ways, on one it didn't work at all and on the other, it seems like the red charge LED is lit instead of the green power LED when the unit is powered and idle. When I plug into my EV, the blue Wifi led glows faintly and the charge indicator goes out. I'm guessing the pinout is not quite right?

The silkscreen on the PCB indicates PWR, WIFI, CHRG and +5V (bottom to top). When testing the ribbon cable with a bench supply, the pinout I get seems to be more like GND, CHRG, WIFI, PWR. Rather than common-anode (as the silkscreen would imply), it looks like it's common cathode. Another post on this forum shows the same (common cathode) pinout that I measured. My PCB version is 1.0.3.

Anything I could do to improve the situation?

I have installed the v1 retrofit board, and it was very easy, and works as intended, AMF to ENEL X!

If you have a V1 box with wifi antennae on the bottom, you have to install the new board "upside down" for the wifi antennae cable to reach the wifi chip, and "may" have to extend the GFCI test coil wires.  Just pay close attention to the connection labels printed on the replacement circuit board.