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OpenEVSE board for juicebox

I am considering buying the new juicebox retrofit board to get myself started in the OpenEVSE world. I have exactly zero experience with OpenEVSE, and some experience with DIY electronics (ESP-home).


Could someone help me figure out, before I jump in:


* Is that board all-inclusive, or is any additional hardware required?

* Is it compatible with a screen, or at least a button?

* Is it pre-flashed, or do I need to get a programmer too? Which one?


Thanks in advance.


@Troy Dangerfield  I Have an old JB 75 PRO that never had LED's.

The Juice rescue board has LED's on the board, so I drilled the front of my case above the LEDs, and added 2 of these light pipes:

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/VCC/LPC_190_CTP?qs=%2FvU7ivDUWU%2FsldLMwOiWiQ%3D%3D&countryCode=US&currencyCode=USD

Retainers:

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/VCC/RTN_250?qs=%2FvU7ivDUWU%252Bzn2CqCPB3Sg%3D%3D&countryCode=US&currencyCode=USD

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I have a very old unit that has no LED's, I have almost completed the cutover and would like to use the LED's I have made a connector but would like to know if the LED's need to have a resistor added, I see that board has 3.3-5v next to the connector. maybe a 150 ohm?


Keep up the great work :)

@David Tsao.  Thanks.  I followed the directions exactly per prior posts on this thread.  If you can give any insight that would be great.  

@Ernest DiNino - I have the same problem with a v0 (solid metal case) and after I plug it in, no lights, no click, nothing. I'm going to check whether the 12VDC relay is connected correctly and I believe it's not polarized but will test.

 

I upgraded my non-functioning JuiceBox V2 yesterday using both this OpenEVSE tutorial and this Youtube tutorial, which was useful but a bit unnerving as the youtuber got it wrong on the first try and never explains his mistake. In my caution, I labeled each wire as I disconnected it, first finding it in OpenEVSE tutorial using supplied pictures and text, then affixing a label matching the correct position on the OpenEVSE board. There are three same-sized plugs that you could mix up if not careful. My labels made it easy to get it right; the station is working perfectly! This is a great example of "reuse, repair, recycle"! Much of the JuiceBox is retained and reused, including all that copper, plastic case and fittings, beefy handle, etc. All that gets recycled is the old board. Thank you OpenEVSE and Chris Howell! Please consider making a specifications label that can replace the Enel X label, and a big OpenEVSE label to cover the word JuiceBox! 



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The sensor is compatible with both versions of the Juicebox replacement boards. It will throttle the current if the enclosure temperature gets high and will shutdown the station if temperatures do not decline after throttling.

Does the MCP9808 temperature sensor work with JuiceBox V1 replacement board and will it limit current based on temperature?

Just installed the v1 board and everything seems to be working fine.  I have some grounding errors but read that could be a firmware bug.  Going to see how it goes over the rest of the week!


Great product keeping these chargers out the landfill.  I must have a EVSE I can de-rate the Amps on.

Is this compatible with the temperature sensor? If so, where would be the best place to mount the temperature sensor in a v2?
I had a version 2.01 pcb for my Juicebox generation 2. This was set up for three phase operation. I’m trying to use the replacement open evse pcb series 2 version 1.0 but have an ac 230v relay which it doesn’t seem to want to operate. Any ideas please?
Hello! I ordered and installed the board for the grey and purple Enel X JuiceBox. I noticed my Equinox EV said it would not be ready in time the following morning. I checked the web interface and found the charger to be jumping between 6a and 40a. Odd. Car estimated it would need another hour to be charged to 80%. I also noticed there were no temperature readings. Could one be causing the other? I submitted a ticket but no word back yet. Now here we are a few days later and the car says the cord is connected but the charger is not sending power. The web interface shows the car to be plugged in but no power is being delivered. Weird.
I installed mine last night, the instructions were great! Very straight forward. However, my amperage is fluctuating between 6 and 40 during charging. This doesn’t seem normal. The car, Equinox EV, starts charging when it thinks it needs to be done by 0630. Now the car is saying it needs another hour to make it up to 80%. Also, no temperature readings? Could this be the issue? This is a grey and purple Enel X if that helps.
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@Nick Kelsey,

Yes, you have the board mounted upside down from how it was intended.  However, in my case, I had to mount it just like you did because my wifi antennae is on the bottom of the case and the wifi antennae wire would not reach.  I have the 75amp Pro version, and it was not possible to slide the ring down, as they had actually shaved some insulation off the wires to get the ring on.

So, yes, I cut and extended the pink wires as you have suggested.  And mine is working great.

Regarding the antennae, I suggest looking for an old internet router that no longer works to scavenge an antennae from. (computer geek friends or relatives, thrift store, ?)

Also, I drilled the front case, and added a light pipe above one of the LEDs.

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/VCC/LPC_190_CTP?qs=%2FvU7ivDUWU%2FsldLMwOiWiQ%3D%3D

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/VCC/RTN_250?qs=%2FvU7ivDUWU%252Bzn2CqCPB3Sg%3D%3D

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@Nick


The board was intended to be installed with the high voltage components at he bottom and low voltage at top, but with some versions the WiFi antenna is on the bottom, some on the top.


You can get the pink wire closer by sliding the coil down along the red/Black wire or flip the board over and reroute the power wires to the left of the plastic standoff to clear the bottom components.


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The pictures in the instructions seem to show everything swapped around which is sightly odd.


With the board orientated I have it all the connections reach ok except for the pink GFI related connection. Should I cut and extend these wires?


I don't think I can rotate the board as the heavy to-car wires are in the way of the bottom side components.

 

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Also is there an antenna you recommend using?

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