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I am considering buying the new juicebox retrofit board to get myself started in the OpenEVSE world. I have exactly zero experience with OpenEVSE, and some experience with DIY electronics (ESP-home).

Could someone help me figure out, before I jump in:

* Is that board all-inclusive, or is any additional hardware required?

* Is it compatible with a screen, or at least a button?

* Is it pre-flashed, or do I need to get a programmer too? Which one?

Thanks in advance.

@Ernest DiNino - I have the same problem with a v0 (solid metal case) and after I plug it in, no lights, no click, nothing. I'm going to check whether the 12VDC relay is connected correctly and I believe it's not polarized but will test.

@David Tsao.  Thanks.  I followed the directions exactly per prior posts on this thread.  If you can give any insight that would be great.  

I have a very old unit that has no LED's, I have almost completed the cutover and would like to use the LED's I have made a connector but would like to know if the LED's need to have a resistor added, I see that board has 3.3-5v next to the connector. maybe a 150 ohm?

Keep up the great work :)

@Ernest DiNino @David Tsao posting pictures of your installs (clear pics of all connections) would probably get useful responses. Also, the Discord server seems to be monitored more regularly: https://youtu.be/0MQJ4ZFYQyw

(We've swapped control boards in 25 Juiceboxes -- v0, v1, v2 -- and they're all working great)

@Ernest DiNino I figured my situation out - even though I labeled each set of wires with a label maker, I somehow swapped the pair of wires for AC Input and AC Test wires. When I correctly wired them, the board turned on. Hope this helps!

Thanks ! This looks like a good idea, my replacement board however has no LED's on it so can not use this method. I plan on using the LED connector which has 3 LED's green, blue, and orange just need to know if the plug in LED's need to have a resistor added.

Both connections are securely connected, I have also changed the stock test wire from one loop to 5 as recommended by your build instructions.

Happy that it is still safe and I can confirm the car charged overnight :)  

I have a question about the "Current Scale" and "current offset".  I know how to change it and can see the effect however to get the readings close to what my car is showing my current scale is set to 83. Do you have a link to explain the calculations around this or do I need to jump into the code.

I just upgraded a Juicebox v2 this weekend and the pilot connector seems to be incompatible with the board I received.  I submitted a ticket, but so far have not heard anything from them.

I just installed the OpenEVSE board for a Juicebox v2. Unfortunately, the pilot connect is very different and incompatible. I have reached out to support, but so far have not heard a response. Anyone else have this issue?

Another question, the pilot wire going to the cable to the car is a heavy gauge, is there really a lot of current that goes through this wire?

Can someone advise the pinout and what connecter to connect the 2 temp sensors to.

"

Temp 2 is MCP9808 sensor connected to the Controller. When installed it is used for enclosure temperature throttling and Emergency Cutoff.

Temp 4 is MCP9808 sensor connected to WiFi, It is for situational awareness and logging. 

"

Thanks in advance. 

Troy

I guess this is the catch-all thread for this. I bought a Juicebox off EBay and an OpenEVSE board. Have installed the board. Had to order a new power cord because it looks like they just cut it off. Hots are 6 AWG. But they don't fit in the GFCI coil. They're both supposed to go through the GFCI coil right? Is there any (reasonably safe) way around that?

I needed a 6 foot cord, so I went with 6 AWG, thinking it'd be safer. Now I've cut the terminals off to put on my own ferrules. Great.