@Troy Dangerfield I Have an old JB 75 PRO that never had LED's.
The Juice rescue board has LED's on the board, so I drilled the front of my case above the LEDs, and added 2 of these light pipes:
Retainers:


I have a very old unit that has no LED's, I have almost completed the cutover and would like to use the LED's I have made a connector but would like to know if the LED's need to have a resistor added, I see that board has 3.3-5v next to the connector. maybe a 150 ohm?
Keep up the great work :)
@David Tsao. Thanks. I followed the directions exactly per prior posts on this thread. If you can give any insight that would be great.
@Ernest DiNino - I have the same problem with a v0 (solid metal case) and after I plug it in, no lights, no click, nothing. I'm going to check whether the 12VDC relay is connected correctly and I believe it's not polarized but will test.
I upgraded my non-functioning JuiceBox V2 yesterday using both this OpenEVSE tutorial and this Youtube tutorial, which was useful but a bit unnerving as the youtuber got it wrong on the first try and never explains his mistake. In my caution, I labeled each wire as I disconnected it, first finding it in OpenEVSE tutorial using supplied pictures and text, then affixing a label matching the correct position on the OpenEVSE board. There are three same-sized plugs that you could mix up if not careful. My labels made it easy to get it right; the station is working perfectly! This is a great example of "reuse, repair, recycle"! Much of the JuiceBox is retained and reused, including all that copper, plastic case and fittings, beefy handle, etc. All that gets recycled is the old board. Thank you OpenEVSE and Chris Howell! Please consider making a specifications label that can replace the Enel X label, and a big OpenEVSE label to cover the word JuiceBox!
Does the MCP9808 temperature sensor work with JuiceBox V1 replacement board and will it limit current based on temperature?
Just installed the v1 board and everything seems to be working fine. I have some grounding errors but read that could be a firmware bug. Going to see how it goes over the rest of the week!
Great product keeping these chargers out the landfill. I must have a EVSE I can de-rate the Amps on.
@Nick Kelsey,
Yes, you have the board mounted upside down from how it was intended. However, in my case, I had to mount it just like you did because my wifi antennae is on the bottom of the case and the wifi antennae wire would not reach. I have the 75amp Pro version, and it was not possible to slide the ring down, as they had actually shaved some insulation off the wires to get the ring on.
So, yes, I cut and extended the pink wires as you have suggested. And mine is working great.
Regarding the antennae, I suggest looking for an old internet router that no longer works to scavenge an antennae from. (computer geek friends or relatives, thrift store, ?)
Also, I drilled the front case, and added a light pipe above one of the LEDs.
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/VCC/LPC_190_CTP?qs=%2FvU7ivDUWU%2FsldLMwOiWiQ%3D%3D
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/VCC/RTN_250?qs=%2FvU7ivDUWU%252Bzn2CqCPB3Sg%3D%3D
@Nick
The board was intended to be installed with the high voltage components at he bottom and low voltage at top, but with some versions the WiFi antenna is on the bottom, some on the top.
You can get the pink wire closer by sliding the coil down along the red/Black wire or flip the board over and reroute the power wires to the left of the plastic standoff to clear the bottom components.
The pictures in the instructions seem to show everything swapped around which is sightly odd.
With the board orientated I have it all the connections reach ok except for the pink GFI related connection. Should I cut and extend these wires?
I don't think I can rotate the board as the heavy to-car wires are in the way of the bottom side components.

Also is there an antenna you recommend using?
openev. freshdesk. com@redsails. net
I am considering buying the new juicebox retrofit board to get myself started in the OpenEVSE world. I have exactly zero experience with OpenEVSE, and some experience with DIY electronics (ESP-home).
Could someone help me figure out, before I jump in:
* Is that board all-inclusive, or is any additional hardware required?
* Is it compatible with a screen, or at least a button?
* Is it pre-flashed, or do I need to get a programmer too? Which one?
Thanks in advance.