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I am considering buying the new juicebox retrofit board to get myself started in the OpenEVSE world. I have exactly zero experience with OpenEVSE, and some experience with DIY electronics (ESP-home).

Could someone help me figure out, before I jump in:

* Is that board all-inclusive, or is any additional hardware required?

* Is it compatible with a screen, or at least a button?

* Is it pre-flashed, or do I need to get a programmer too? Which one?

Thanks in advance.

I just tried the light bar, it's a better option overall. I have to cut an opening in the case for the wiring, but otherwise it works well. The 3D printed diffuser will keep things looking clean. Thank you for the suggestion!

One more thing - the wifi indicator did not seem to work with the new board. I'm ok with this, but if you are making a new version you may want to figure out why. Thanks!

I received the new board and LED module. I tried out the new board and while it drove the front-panel power LED, the car was not charging. The two internal LEDs were red, and after connecting through wifi the charger was reporting a "no ground" fault. The outlet that I was using had another charger on it and was working fine. Upon inspection, the optocoupler used to test ground was not properly soldered. Reflowing the leads got things working.

Please advise where I can return the older PCB. I will also order a new J1772 connector, it appears mine is worn (I can hear arcing when plugging in).

Sure thing - I'm ok to try out either or both solutions. Let me know what the next step is. Thank you!

Allen, the 12V relay + pilot connector is assembled properly on mine, the pilot signal going to the J1772 connector lines up with the silkscreen. Also, the charger works properly when I plug into my EV, which could not have happened with a mirrored connector.

The indicator FFC connector appears to not just have the signal assignments mirrored, but also expects to have a common anode LED arrangement while my Juicebox has common cathode LEDs.

All other connectors in/out of the board carry AC (240V supply, 240V sense, GFCI test signal and the current transformer inputs) so the polarity should not matter.

I suppose one way out is to make a small board with a few PNP transistors to invert the sense of the signals and drive the existing LED array. Just wanted to confirm if this was an issue others had, or if there's something I'm missing.

@Jim George is it possible that your 12v supply wires are reversed (polarity)?  One of the connectors on my V1 (the one with the pilot) was assembled wrong from the factory.  Instead of correcting it, they just broke the orientation tab off on the PCB connector, so they could plug in the connector reversed.

There may be two different versions of the v1 Juicebox. Mine has a green flat flex cable for the indicator LEDs that passes through a hole in the front cover and is integrated into the decal applied to the outside of the cover. There is another post on the forum that shows the same green cable, and the poster had found the same pinout that I measured. My Juicebox original PCB uses a right-angle flat flex connector.

The instructions show a white flex cable that goes to a visible PCB on the inside of the enclosure, and to a vertical flat flex connector on the Juicebox PCB, similar to the one used on the retrofit PCB. If the retrofit kit is designed for this, I'm guessing that's why the indicators aren't working quite right for me.

I have installed the v1 retrofit board, and it was very easy, and works as intended, AMF to ENEL X!

If you have a V1 box with wifi antennae on the bottom, you have to install the new board "upside down" for the wifi antennae cable to reach the wifi chip, and "may" have to extend the GFCI test coil wires.  Just pay close attention to the connection labels printed on the replacement circuit board.

I got a v1 kit from OpenEVSE to use with my v1 Juicebox (orange+black metal box, same as Ted's post above). The install instructions were clear, except for the orientation of the LED flex PCB. I tried it both ways, on one it didn't work at all and on the other, it seems like the red charge LED is lit instead of the green power LED when the unit is powered and idle. When I plug into my EV, the blue Wifi led glows faintly and the charge indicator goes out. I'm guessing the pinout is not quite right?

The silkscreen on the PCB indicates PWR, WIFI, CHRG and +5V (bottom to top). When testing the ribbon cable with a bench supply, the pinout I get seems to be more like GND, CHRG, WIFI, PWR. Rather than common-anode (as the silkscreen would imply), it looks like it's common cathode. Another post on this forum shows the same (common cathode) pinout that I measured. My PCB version is 1.0.3.

Anything I could do to improve the situation?

Any shot you could also provide the specs on the connectors used on the v1? I have a v0 that I'd be down for crimping some terminals on to in lieu of soldering screw terminals if I knew what to order.