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OpenEVSE board for juicebox

I am considering buying the new juicebox retrofit board to get myself started in the OpenEVSE world. I have exactly zero experience with OpenEVSE, and some experience with DIY electronics (ESP-home).


Could someone help me figure out, before I jump in:


* Is that board all-inclusive, or is any additional hardware required?

* Is it compatible with a screen, or at least a button?

* Is it pre-flashed, or do I need to get a programmer too? Which one?


Thanks in advance.


@Ted Yes, the v1 is what you need.


@Jeff We put 3.5 and 5mm screw terminal pads on the v1 controller. If you are comfortable soldering you can do this yourself, if not we will offer a v0 version soon with the connectors soldered on for you.


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@Erik.


Remove part U2 the 3.3v regulator that powers the On-board WiFi.


The 6 pin harness between the controller and WiFi LCD has 2 red wires that cross and a Green and Yellow wire that cross. Each set will need to be uncrossed on one end so the harness is straight through.




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@Ben Ford Regarding the screw terminals, I think OpenEVSE has offered to solder on the screw terminals before shipping if you make a special request.  Also, there has been some discussion of the LEDs and options on the OpenEVSE Discord channel:  https://discord.gg/Y3ftbUd4rR



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I will throw out there that I have a v0 and possess very mediocre soldering skills. Was hoping to crimp some connectors instead. Honestly I'd just go for the soldering. It's literally the easiest soldering job I've ever done to put the screw terminals on. Only "tricky" part is I had to reroute wires due to different enough locations and had to replace the coil test wire as it couldn't quite reach. Again this was super easy as I already had comparable wire lying around.



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Any shot you could also provide the specs on the connectors used on the v1? I have a v0 that I'd be down for crimping some terminals on to in lieu of soldering screw terminals if I knew what to order.


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@Jim George We are looking into the issue, I believe you are correct about common cathode vs common anode. 


I have a couple solutions, I will be happy to send you both to test, the first is a LED board, that connects to a 3 pin port. It drives 3 RGB "neopixils" they will not match the Power, WiFi, Charging but better match the newer Juicebox color bar. The second is a revision of the v1 controller. We removed the IO chip and changed to a coming ground wired in the LEDs to the 5v for power. TX for WiFi and a LED off the relay drive pin.



Thanks, that's exactly what I was expecting.


* Is it compatible with a screen, or at least a button?

OpenEVSE moved away from physical buttons about 5 years ago, none of our products are compatible with a button without compiling custom firmware. The retrofit board is compatible with all OpenEVSE parts including displays and temperature sensors. If you want to add the LCD display with WiFi you will need to reconfigure the included wiring harness and disable the on-board WiFi. We can do this for you if you order all the parts from us.

 I have a v2 board in my JuiceBox and Color LCD kit.  How do I make the needed changes to the wiring harness and disable the onboard WiFi myself?

 @OpenEVSE support -- We have 25 JBs, bought 3 v1 boards to test. The one we've installed works great except the LEDs don't work. Not a dealbreaker but if there's a version coming out that might let them work, I'd love to know before buying the rest. Our v1s have at least 3 different case graphics, which might correspond to slightly different electronics or LED modules?

One of ours is v0; two or three are v2. Is there a v0 version coming out? Or will we have to solder on the screw terminals ourselves?


Thanks for creating this board.

I am really looking forward to getting this retrofit for my juicebox v2.  Is there an option to at some point add Ethernet, our 2.4 ghz band gets washed out sometimes by the military base I think.  Also if I wanted to add a display is there a connector for that already on the board?  Thank you.

I just tried the light bar, it's a better option overall. I have to cut an opening in the case for the wiring, but otherwise it works well. The 3D printed diffuser will keep things looking clean. Thank you for the suggestion!

Thanks for the report Jim. I really did not have a good place to grab WiFi status LED,  I grabbed TX, so the light should flash whenever there is communications between the controller and WiFi, It may be dim as the protocol it pretty efficient and there is not a lot of data.


Did you try the LED light bar? I like this option better.

One more thing - the wifi indicator did not seem to work with the new board. I'm ok with this, but if you are making a new version you may want to figure out why. Thanks!

I received the new board and LED module. I tried out the new board and while it drove the front-panel power LED, the car was not charging. The two internal LEDs were red, and after connecting through wifi the charger was reporting a "no ground" fault. The outlet that I was using had another charger on it and was working fine. Upon inspection, the optocoupler used to test ground was not properly soldered. Reflowing the leads got things working.


Please advise where I can return the older PCB. I will also order a new J1772 connector, it appears mine is worn (I can hear arcing when plugging in).

@Jim George I should have both in a couple days. I already had the 3 pixel LED designed and have it in hand. A prototype revision of the v1 should be ready early next week.

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