There may be two different versions of the v1 Juicebox. Mine has a green flat flex cable for the indicator LEDs that passes through a hole in the front cover and is integrated into the decal applied to the outside of the cover. There is another post on the forum that shows the same green cable, and the poster had found the same pinout that I measured. My Juicebox original PCB uses a right-angle flat flex connector.
The instructions show a white flex cable that goes to a visible PCB on the inside of the enclosure, and to a vertical flat flex connector on the Juicebox PCB, similar to the one used on the retrofit PCB. If the retrofit kit is designed for this, I'm guessing that's why the indicators aren't working quite right for me.
I have installed the v1 retrofit board, and it was very easy, and works as intended, AMF to ENEL X!
If you have a V1 box with wifi antennae on the bottom, you have to install the new board "upside down" for the wifi antennae cable to reach the wifi chip, and "may" have to extend the GFCI test coil wires. Just pay close attention to the connection labels printed on the replacement circuit board.
I got a v1 kit from OpenEVSE to use with my v1 Juicebox (orange+black metal box, same as Ted's post above). The install instructions were clear, except for the orientation of the LED flex PCB. I tried it both ways, on one it didn't work at all and on the other, it seems like the red charge LED is lit instead of the green power LED when the unit is powered and idle. When I plug into my EV, the blue Wifi led glows faintly and the charge indicator goes out. I'm guessing the pinout is not quite right?
The silkscreen on the PCB indicates PWR, WIFI, CHRG and +5V (bottom to top). When testing the ribbon cable with a bench supply, the pinout I get seems to be more like GND, CHRG, WIFI, PWR. Rather than common-anode (as the silkscreen would imply), it looks like it's common cathode. Another post on this forum shows the same (common cathode) pinout that I measured. My PCB version is 1.0.3.
Anything I could do to improve the situation?
Any shot you could also provide the specs on the connectors used on the v1? I have a v0 that I'd be down for crimping some terminals on to in lieu of soldering screw terminals if I knew what to order.
@Ted Yes, the v1 is what you need.
@Jeff We put 3.5 and 5mm screw terminal pads on the v1 controller. If you are comfortable soldering you can do this yourself, if not we will offer a v0 version soon with the connectors soldered on for you.
I opened a support ticket, but probably better to ask here: I have a V1 Juicebox, but it looks like this, which is different from the image on your site. Can you confirm that the V1 kit works with this version as well? Thanks!
The build guides are here. All you need is a screwdriver and about 10 minutes.
https://openevse.dozuki.com/c/JuiceBox
* Is that board all-inclusive, or is any additional hardware required?
You need a JuiceBox from EnelX/eMororWerks and our retrofit board.
* Is it compatible with a screen, or at least a button?
OpenEVSE moved away from physical buttons about 5 years ago, none of our products are compatible with a button without compiling custom firmware. The retrofit board is compatible with all OpenEVSE parts including displays and temperature sensors. If you want to add the LCD display with WiFi you will need to reconfigure the included wiring harness and disable the on-board WiFi. We can do this for you if you order all the parts from us.
* Is it pre-flashed, or do I need to get a programmer too? Which one?
It is preflashed ready to go. The main firmware is updatable over the air via WiFi.
Hi,
Same.
I'm also interested in knowing about the procedure and what is needed.
openev. freshdesk. com@redsails. net
I am considering buying the new juicebox retrofit board to get myself started in the OpenEVSE world. I have exactly zero experience with OpenEVSE, and some experience with DIY electronics (ESP-home).
Could someone help me figure out, before I jump in:
* Is that board all-inclusive, or is any additional hardware required?
* Is it compatible with a screen, or at least a button?
* Is it pre-flashed, or do I need to get a programmer too? Which one?
Thanks in advance.