The resistor in the handle is for the max capacity of the cable. Pilot is the max capacity of the station.
It is as simple as adding the correct resistor. Here is a guide that may help.
Have checked and I don't see the retaining ring but there is nothing to interfere with the contactor.
Photos of the inside here:
I will try moving the black wire as you suggested - when I find out how - but in the meantime I might attach some wires to that terminal so see if 12V appears when the car is connected.
I have tried to take as many photos as possible.
As you can see no mechanical obstruction of the Struthers Dunnn. I am not sure where the retaining ring is but I don't see anything that would prevent the relay from working. Also, we put 12V onto the coil wires and it did KLAK.
I will try moving the black wire from the board to the open position - need to find out how first. But also will operate the OpenEVSE open (safely) and attach a wire to measure if 12V is being provided on the connector.
@Anthony the command for relay delay and power is $Z0
Here is a picture of the retaining ring. It should be easy to tell if the relay moves freely by pressing the contacts down by hand (with the power off).
@Antony -The odds that both relay outputs on your controller are bad are essentially zero. We have never seen this. We can exchange controllers if you wish however we do not think it will resolve your issue.
Older WiFi firmware does not update the current value immediately, even though the current was written to the controller. You can verify this using the RAPI commands.
Send a set current (this example sets 24A)
The controller should respond $OK
Then send the get current command
It should respond with an Ok and 24
The latest WiFi firmware is here:
We are making progress, your issue with the handle seems to be resolved now.
We clearly understand the "No Ground" the issue. Assuming your earth ground is good. The false positive can only be two things, electrical or mechanical.
Electrical - "OpenEVSE now goes ready - plug car in - connected - KLAK" proves the output on the controller is working. I am not very familiar with the "EU firmware" you have loaded it likely does not have Adjustable relay power enabled however if it does, adjustable power was disabled in software with $Z0 command.
Mechanical - The pictures show no wires are providing a physical blockage. If the retaining clip is Okay and the relay is smooth easy to close by hand then the only other mechanical issue we have seen is the relay contact gap is too large. The Gap should be about 2mm. The gap can be adjusted by squeezing the top contact plate and the stop on the side.
I measured the contact gap - I had a strip of aluminium 1mm thick, doubled it and that fitted - so gap ( on L and R gaps ) is almost exactly 2mm.
What more could I possibly do apart from replacing the controller now?
Which version of the firmware should I load ( I don't have a firmware programmer so need to go to a friend who has one and is running 8.2.0 eu successfully