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Older JuiceBox 40 returned to service

It was a struggle as I reverse engineered how to replace the original controller with the V 1.0.4 (?) board. Lesson's learned:

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  • Systems level sketch like this helped me get it right the first time. The schematic file is too "in the weeds" for someone just trying to swap boards.
  • Juicebox wiring was a rats nest so I used heat shrink to pair the signal wires and that simplified a better wire layout.
  • Using standoffs, the new board went in higher will all the signal lines below it. Here are the before and after shots:

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How do I get the initial configuration wizard to restart so I can do it on 240 VAC instead of my 120 VAC house kludge?


The maximum current shows 24 A but I really want full 32 A that my Tesla Model 3 can use. Is this a wizard setting or can I override the web slider?


I shared my success with forums "InsideEV", "Tesla Owners", and "PriusChat." This link should work: 

https://www.teslaownersonline.com/threads/openevse-salvages-gray-juicebox-40-pro.37039/?post_id=449758#post-449758


The first one took about 15 hours as I had to check and double check what I was looking at. The second one should take about an 1 hr now that I've done it once. <GRINS>


Bob Wilson


1 Comment

Hi Bob,


If your station successfully joined your home WiFi the wizard will not come back. You can login to your WiFi and look at the client list to get the address your router assigned. 


Alternatively you can turn off your home WiFi and power cycle the station. When it fails to connect, it will start up the configuration wizard again.


To set the current, Click the Gear icon then EVSE then set the Maximum Current.




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