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Older JuiceBox 40 returned to service

It was a struggle as I reverse engineered how to replace the original controller with the V 1.0.4 (?) board. Lesson's learned:

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  • Systems level sketch like this helped me get it right the first time. The schematic file is too "in the weeds" for someone just trying to swap boards.
  • Juicebox wiring was a rats nest so I used heat shrink to pair the signal wires and that simplified a better wire layout.
  • Using standoffs, the new board went in higher will all the signal lines below it. Here are the before and after shots:

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How do I get the initial configuration wizard to restart so I can do it on 240 VAC instead of my 120 VAC house kludge?


The maximum current shows 24 A but I really want full 32 A that my Tesla Model 3 can use. Is this a wizard setting or can I override the web slider?


I shared my success with forums "InsideEV", "Tesla Owners", and "PriusChat." This link should work: 

https://www.teslaownersonline.com/threads/openevse-salvages-gray-juicebox-40-pro.37039/?post_id=449758#post-449758


The first one took about 15 hours as I had to check and double check what I was looking at. The second one should take about an 1 hr now that I've done it once. <GRINS>


Bob Wilson



Hi Bob,


If your station successfully joined your home WiFi the wizard will not come back. You can login to your WiFi and look at the client list to get the address your router assigned. 


Alternatively you can turn off your home WiFi and power cycle the station. When it fails to connect, it will start up the configuration wizard again.


To set the current, Click the Gear icon then EVSE then set the Maximum Current.




1 person likes this
Thanks, I try the power off WiFi and power cycle the EVSE. I took the first, 24 kW limit when it needed to be 33 kW for my cars.
FYI, the “guide” software defeated me. You are welcome to scarf up what I documented.

@Bob The guide is written for the newer UL listed V1, which is just moving over a few connectors. The V0 with all the screw terminals is a little more challenging, there is also more variation in units that were pre-UL. You did an excellent job with your diagram. I will likely include it when a guide is created for v0.


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Just fixed the max current to 33A. Thank you! 


Given some of the others I've seen, that "40 A" claim for the JuiceBox 40 Pro seems "optimistic.' I won't throw stones at those who built stuff more than me so I'll just add my thoughts about the Model A Ford, I'm glad they aren't making any more like that!


As for my write-up and sketches, feel free to use as needed. I'm here for the community. I do think the system sketch is useful but your call. <GRINS>

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