I've got the advanced kit which I'm assembling now, and new circuits run in my garage using #6 copper wire. I want to hardwire this #6 directly to the EVSE, but I'm having trouble finding ring connectors that will fit both the wire size and the stud size. All the pictures in the assemble guide seems to show double wires going to all the ring connectors, instead of one #6 like I have. Advice?
We would recommend a Molex Versakrimp connector with #8 hole and 6AWG. Here is the connector on Digikey:
I just called and talked to Chris about this same question and got the same helpful answer. Now that I have some terminals on the way - can you comment on the most cost-effective way to crimp these?
Lacking the proper crimp tool I just squeezed them a bit with pliers to hold them in place, then filled the crimp tube with solder. This is a standard technique for making car battery cables, and it worked great!
I just wanted to check-in to say that I ordered a crimping tool from Amazon for ~$30 (which included a large gauge cutting tool also). The tool is marked for use on crimping connections from 8awg up through 1/0. Reviews for this tool, and others like it, were mixed. Many buyers complained that this was a rebadged metric crimper which makes messy looking crimps. After making a few test crimps, I agree with the reviews. However, I was able to develop a method to reliably achieve reasonable quality results:
What ended up working well was to first crimp at one size larger (eg. #4 setting on the tool for a 6awg connector). This causes a good crimp with minimal "squeeze-out" at the meeting-point of the jaws. I would then re-crimp 60 degrees rotated on the connector to push down the parts of the crimp that squeezed out of the jaws. Then re-crimp at the correct size (#6) and finally one more crimp at #6, but again 60 degrees rotated on the connector to give a good finished-look. This yielded clean strong crimps that I'm quite certain will set into a quality cold-weld. I also used an inch or two of 3/8" shrink tubing over each connection to insulate the parts of the terminal that won't meet with the contactor.
I'm curious on the reasoning for hardwiring? Is it just tidiness - ie. lack of an additional box/receptacle on the wall? Is it a perception of this providing a better, more reliable connection? If you're hardwiring, are you also including a switch to disconnect power from the EVSE, or are you relying on the breaker for that. I'm not sure what the rules are elsewhere, but the Canadian Electrical Code requires that EVSE must have a means of disconnecting power that is within sight of the EVSE and capable of being locked in the open position (Rule 86-304). To me, a plug seems like a perfect fit for that requirement. I'm not sure if your circuit breaker could fulfill this rule if the EVSE is right next to your panel - maybe. The rule does require a "separate" means of disconnection, although I not sure what it needs to be separate from - probably the EVSE itself, I think, so the breaker may be fine so long as it's visible and accessible from the EVSE's location. I'm not sure what other jurisdictions require, although I understood that NEC and CEC are very similar.
OpenEVSE Support said, " We would recommend a Molex Versakrimp connector with #8 hole and 6AWG. Here is the connector on Digikey: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/molex/0191930243/WM13835-ND/3187637 "
Any chance this suggestion has changed? The C240C's lugs look like they will happily accept #6 wire, though I can't seem to find a data sheet and I'm not about to make a 50 amp assumption.
The current kit with the Packarg C240C contactor should use wire ferrules. We use Phoenix Contact, ferrule kit and part numbers are here: