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Building a flexible tailless OpenEVSE 40A kit.

Hi, 


I've bought an OpenEVSE Advanced 40A kit, and I'd like a sanity check on my approach to a couple of mods before I commit to assembly. 


I live in NZ where three forms of single phase charging socket are widely available:

1) Home/motel: 3-pin flat 240v, 10A sockets, AS/NZS 3112

2) Caravan parks: Blue commando 3-pin round 240v 16A sockets, IEC 60309

3) Public tailless Type 2 charging stations IEC 62196-1 16A/32A sockets

My current PHEV has a Type 1 on-board socket so I already carry a Type 2 to Type 1 cable.


My plan is to build an OpenEVSE kit with:

1) a Type 2 IEC 62196-1 Socket, for use with the Type 1 to Type 2 cable, to avoid carrying two cables.

2) a Neutrik PowerCon 32A (http://www.neutrik.com/en/power/powercon-32-a/powercon-32-a/nac3mp-hcin-board locking socket, for use with two alternative patch cables for home 3-pin & blue commando plugs. I would expect one or other of these tails normally to be plugged in for long periods while I'm either at home or on the road .. so don't anticipate unplugging it every time I use it.


So I'm exploring different ways to re-arrange items inside the box to accommodate the two sockets and I think I have a viable and elegant solution, which I'm happy to share once I have settled on 'the answer'. 


So my questions are: (I'm being super cautious in asking each of these just to be sure)

1) which items are most prone to heating up and therefore need some air space round them?

2) is there a risk of electrical interference in having high current cables too near (but obviously not touching) items such as the MINMAX power module, or the walls of the enclosure, or the wifi unit? ie What is a reasonable minimum separation?

3) is the total area of the ground plate critical electrically or for heat dispersion? I'm looking to reduce its length by 20-25% to enlarge the interior volume round the 2x sockets.

4) Given that the ground plate no longer covers the entire base, and that I take suitable precaution to protect insulation a minimise high amp cable curvature, is there any reason why it would be a bad idea to route some cables through new holes in the ground plate?


Finally the Neutrik 32A is the most compact 32A locking socket I have found, but if someone has identified a better alternative, I'm very open to other alternative suggestions.


Many thanks in advance for your help

Robert


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Hi,


I never got round to posting photos of the result, so wanted to say that the build went fine and the mod has been working really well, and show a couple of photos of the result:


The first photo shows the internal layout with the Type 2 IEC 62196-1 socket mounted lower right in a new cutout, the Neutrik PowerCon 32A power in socket in the original left-hand port hole, and a blank inserted into the right-hand port hole.

image


The new cut-out for the Type 2 socket also meant a cut-out in the lid and therefore a new piece of seal for the lid as well. While it fits snuggly, I'm not going to pretend that it is fully water proof. If I do use the unit outside overnight when there is a risk of rain or heavy dew, such as in a camping ground, I put the whole unit off the ground on a small camp stool and enclose it loosely in an oversize watertight bag as a precaution and this has worked well.


As mentioned in the first post, the ground-plate has been shortened to accomodate the two sockets, and there is an additional cutout on the left-hand edge. This cutout allows the double-brown lead carrying 240v from the Neutrik socket to the relay be routed under the ground-plate instead between the pillar in the case and the relay.


The next two photographs with the lid on, show the Type 2 port with its flap open, and the Neutrik PowerCon 32A socket and plug. 

image


image

These photos also show the four feet that I attached. These are needed to accomodate the wide rim of the Type 2 socket which is wider than the full depth of the OpenEVSE enclosure. The feet just keep the rim off the floor or wall where I normally mount the unit at home.

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